INSTALLATION INFO : Now that you have your reverse motor, and are ready to install, let’s go over a few key issues for properly installing, and keeping it working like new.  Get the most out of your reverse motor, so to speak. First of all, we should review some installation tips.

  1. Make sure the mounting surface adjacent to the reverse motor is cleaned and preserved. Take a wire toothbrush or a small piece of fine grit sandpaper and carefully clean all surface areas that could act as a ground path.
  2. Remove any pollutants like grease or grime with brake cleaner or mineral spirits. Don’t forget about threaded mounting bolt holes and the mounting bolts.
  3. Then, with a small amount of dielectric grease or white lithium grease, smear it onto all the surfaces that you just cleaned to prevent future corrosion.
  4. Insure that any and all surface areas of the hot wire eyelets connections are clean by the same method as above. Then apply dielectric or white lithium grease to these areas as well. Don’t forget the smaller trigger wire on the solenoid.

We catagorically recommend not using lock washers to fasten the battery electrical connections to the solenoid copper studs. Place a thin 17mm wrench on the bottom nut to secure the stud while tightening the top nut. Follow the same procedure with the smaller ignition stud. It is extremely important that the installer use perfectly aligned pressure on the socket or wrench when torque is applied. Any side pressure (force applied other than 90◦ square angle increments) can cause solenoid cap damage.

Battery maintenance for the HD reverse motor is an absolute must. If you don’t have a trickle charger, take the battery out and take it to your dealer and have it charged and checked. If you’ve had the bike parked for any lengthy amount of time, be sure to leave a trickle charger on the battery. Many chargers are on the market today that are known as “smart” chargers which are capable of knowing if a battery is AGM, lead acid, or deep cycle so that it can respond with a charge pattern accordingly.

These are AGM batteries (absorbant glass mat). This is a new type of battery that many manufacturers are going to for their superior amperage outputs and longer life expectancy. AGM batteries are also a lot safer on bikes because there is no liquid acid to run out in case of an accident like the old time wet cells. Good news for distributors and transporters too, no hazardous materials permits and vehicles.

No matter what though, no battery will last forever. The more cycles, and the more age a battery (any type of battery) has, the more the likelihood of going bad. Stay ahead of the curve. Don’t let a battery that’s just hanging on by a thread, stress out the other electrical components on your bike, because that’s exactly what it will do. If your battery is over 5 years old, start considering a replacement before it dies and takes something else like your charging system or your new reverse motor with it.

Don’t forget to clean your battery terminal connections. Then apply some type of corrosion inhibitor.

Try to store your bike in a warm dry environment particularly in states that have cold winter months. If needed, remove the battery from the bike and store it in a warm dry room. A trickle charge should then be applied every 60 days or a battery maintainance device installed temporarily.